Ageing

EQUIPMENT
Supra Colour
Sponge
Foundation Pallet
White Base
Barrier Cream
Old Age Stipple
Tooth Enamel

FACE

1. Apply the foundation base, making it lighter than the natural skin.
2. Using a fine brush and a mix of blue, red and yellow to make a brown, blend that into the cheek bones, under the chin, around the temple and on the nose to make the face look sunken.
3. Ask the model to make face to accentuate the natural wrinkles and then paint into them.
4. Dab and blend to desired look.
5. Go around the eyes to make them more sunken add some red.
6. Discolor tooth if desired.

Unfortunately I only had time to do half the face which was the main flaw, other than that I really like what I have done here, I could of maybe made some of the areas of the face a lot darker to help it stand out a bit more. I would also like to do something a little more creative with the tooth enamel rather than just blacking one out. As a whole though, I am quite impressed with what I have achieved.


HAND

1. Apply barrier cream onto hand.
2. Pull the hand tight whilst applying the stipple.
3. Use a blow dryer to dry the first layer.
4. Apply second layer.
5. Once dry let go of the hand and scrunch up the latex to give that old age effect.

This was my first attempt at ageing the skin, to me it doesn't seem like its that aged but rather just rough skin. I think I need to apply thicker layers to make the difference more obvious.

As I'd only done half the face I decided to do the whole face back at my flat on one of my flat mates, I am really impressed with the outcome and think it works really well. I need to remember for next time to do the neck so it looks more realistic.

I had made Adam to look extremely old and worn out, if I was to make some one in their 40's / 50's I'd slightly tone down the sunken in eyes and the forehead wrinkles to make it more natural.

The main reason we are learning to age the skin is because we have been asked to recreate Miss Havisham from Great Expectations and her skin is really old and worn out.

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02123/misshaversham2_2123727b.jpg

Early Victorian Hair

EQUIPMENT

Tail Comb

Small Curler

1.Part the hair in middle parting and section of back from front. 
2.Tie a mid to high ponytail.

3.Twist the 2 sections of ponytail around each other then twist around hair band and fasten with pins.

4.Curl the sides of the hair with the tong pointed towards the ceiling to make the desired curl.

5.Depending on the time of the era, loosen or leave the curls as they are.

In regards to what I have done here I feel I should make the curls start a little lower down and make them more Victorian by holding the piece of hair flat against the iron rather than wrapped up. There are some curls that I think really represent Victorian hair but some just don’t quite work. Also, as I was styling the hair my main objective was to create and early Victorian look but I then stupidly made the curls looser by touching them, causing them too not look as tight as they previously did.

The second look I did was basically the same in regards to bun at the back except this time the side parts were plaited into the bun, with the fake head having really short hair this was difficult to achieve but I tried. I much prefer the first look in the way it looks. It’s a lot more flattering to the face and doesn’t look as odd. As you can see I’ve tried to hide the plait into the back of the hair to make it a little less obvious.

Whilst back at my flat I decided to practice this style on a flat mate with much longer hair than the fake head which fit more with the idea of being Victorian as they never cut their hair. This was the result:

The bun came out a lot nice that the previous one as I had some hair left over to make a plait around the bun which made it more like the Apollo Bun. However, I didn't have the right tongs for the curls and found it difficult to create similar ones to the era, I also found it difficult to curl into the face with these curlers so the curls didn't turn out how I wanted them to. Overall the look was slightly more successful in regards to looking like a Victorian hairstyle.

This was the other design we had to do, due to the fact her her was long I was able to wrap the plait around the bun making it look like it does above, I personally think it looks really pretty and a lot like 1840's portraits that I've seen. On the other hand I really don't like the way the plait on the side of the head looks, I think it needs more shape to it to be successful.

These hairstyles were heavily inspired by this particular look that they created in the early Victorian era.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Stieler-Jane_Digby.jpg

Film Review - 2012 Great Expectations

When finding out this was what our first project is going to be based on I was relatively excited as I'd always wanted to study it as it is such a key piece of literature - I watched the BBC TV series and that really lived up to what I had expected, then I was asked to watch this one. This actually very disappointed, I understand this is one of the modern films that is the most similar to the book but I think that's why the BBC version was so popular because it wasn't like the other versions, so whatever I watched I constantly kept comparing it to that one. Same goes for this film, directed by Mike Newell and starred people such as Helen Bonham Carter. Both 2 respectable people that I actually expected a lot more from.

https://enchantedbyfilm.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/
hq-great-expectations-2012-32853648-1800-1198.jpg

In regards to hair and make up and my basic knowledge of the film and the era, I found that some of the hair and make up wasn't actually applicable, for example this image (right). I can understand just from looking at it that Estella is a teenage girl, however the hair that she is wearing is very early Victorian Era and this was based in middle to late, this is the kind of hairstyle we would expect Miss Havisham to be wearing on the day she got married. I think this was done because the of the fact the book matched so well to the actual original script that they felt they could go slightly more artistic on Estella and the other characters hair and make up, there is another example below.

http://images6.fanpop.com/image/photos/32800000/
HQ-great-expectations-2012-32853654-1800-1158.jpg

Victorian Hair.

In early Victorian times the hair styles created were very sleek and romantic. The middle parting was used to create this smooth sleek top and very tight curls around the face, which always curved into the face as it was supposedly more attractive, were always used. A bun at the back of the head was also placed which again made the hair very sleek and neat, this type of bun was called the Apollo knot/bun which I previously brushed on in an old blog post. This bun or knot was made out of plaits which gave the design a very intricate look but in reality it was very easy to make. Below is an example of an 1830's hair design incorporating the middle parting, tight curls around the face and the apollo bun high on the back of her head.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Stieler-Jane_Digby.jpg

As the years went on their hair stay very similar, it just got a lot bigger and the middle parting was lost. The curls around the face remained but they got loser and more romantic. Bonnets were worn so the hair was designed to fit their bonnet shape. I much preferred the later hair styles mainly because they were a lot softer and in today's society more realistic. The hair was still relatively neat just slightly bigger and slightly more intricate and looser. From looking at drawings and portraits it seems that the hairstyle got a lot more prettier than the previous styles of the Victorian era, although, obviously at the time they would of thought otherwise.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/0d/bb/24/0dbb249d4e736809609503e2463adb07.jpg

Modern Miss Havisham

After looking into the film versions of her I wanted to see if any designers or photographers had looked into using her as inspiration and if I could get any inspiration from their work. These are just a few that I found.

TIM WALKER - VOGUE ITALIA

http://cdn.trendhunterstatic.com/
phpthumbnails/69/69699/69699_1_800.jpeg

http://cdn.trendhunterstatic.com
/phpthumbnails/69/69699/69699_2_800.jpeg

Although this is not directly inspired by Great Expectations it is however inspired by the Victorian Era, with the big lady of leisure style hair. This was shot by the ever so famous fashion photographer Tim Walker for Vogue Italia. There were more photos to this series but I felt these 2 portrayed the idea I was looking for more clearly. More specifically, image one - I felt this had very strong Miss Havisham vibes about it, the white messy hair alongside the white face. Even the off white outfit with torn edges really gave the impression of Miss Havisham. I really like the idea of including things into the hair that represent the book but also making it look a mess.


PAOLO ROVERSI - VOGUE UK

http://41.media.tumblr.com/
940d5de451402454b0c1fdac3f2927d4
/tumblr_mh1tgh4AFT1qj7piio1_r2_500.jpg

Looking at this image you can tell the make up is very much inspired by the Victorian Era rather than the book, with the pale face and lightly stained cheeks, obviously this has a more contemporary twist onto it. The main reason I took interest with this photo was not only the link to Victorian make up but also the dress. The dress on its own really portrays Miss Havisham; the off white colour, ragged edges and messy frill along the edge represents many of the films costumes as well. Photographically the image is stunning, I really like the cool tone to it all mainly because of the spooky eerie nature that it gives.














ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 

http://s3-ak.buzzfeed.com/static/enhanced
/terminal01/2011/3/15/16/enhanced-buzz
-16261-1300220597-27.jpg

Although not completely obvious and may be nothing to do with the Victorian era. But the colour and cut really reminds me of an artistic approach to what Miss Havisham's dress would look like, I also thought it would be a wedding dress just from the veil over the face. Its very difficult with McQueen's work to determine what the exact use is for the garment is so this is how I interpreted it. The deliberate ragged edges at the bottom really represent the dress in 2011 series just obviously a lot nicer.

Miss Havisham Through The Ages

Linking with my previous post of looking into the way Dickens portrays Miss Havisham, I had a brief look at some of the most popular recreations of Great Expectations and decided to analyse their interpretation of her.

2012 

http://returntofleet.files.wordpress.com/
2012/08/great-expectations-2012.jpg

This was the most recent reconstruction of it and personally I think the attire and make up are fabulous but not completely how I imagined her to look like, you can tell this is the more modern equivalent out the films just by looking at her wedding dress. I watched this film and felt her attitude was too stern for this character and not quite eerie enough in the way that Dicken's described her as. Creating many of these hair styles seen would be to simply use the frizzing technique alongside backcombing and curling.
















2011 (BBC Series) 

http://images.bluegartr.com/bucket/gallery
/faae3485a8a01703893a036aa58817b6.jpg

Out of all the films I have watched of this book this series had to be my favorite, I also think they portrayed Miss Havishm's mental state really well, not too bold but also very vacant in regards to her mental state. Physically I also like this one a lot more, the previous, more modern one seemed unnatural when looking at the circumstances. Whereas this one her hair is still (although a mess) put up like the way she had it for her wedding and her dress more suitable for the time she was getting married and her personality.














1998 

http://www.thefancarpet.com/uploaded_assets/images/
gallery/1256/Great_Expectations_15247_Medium.jpg

This was one of the weirdest interpretations of her - even the film was odd. It was sort of based on the book but they tried to make it a more modern contemporary version which personally, I think spoiled it. It was american to start off with which was odd because the main concept of this story line was 19th century Britain and becoming a gentleman. I can sort of see their relevance and idea behind Miss Havisham - shes mad and extravagant but lacks the idea of her being in a mess, mentally and physically. Shes too made up and proper.







1946

https://makingmakars.files.wordpress.com
/2014/07/havisham.jpg

Although there are many versions of this film I just looked at a few that were a lot different but also quite similar to each other. I watched a section of this film and felt it was the one that mostly related to the book, similarly to the 2011 series they portrayed her in the way that I imagined her to look. Her hair still the same, but a mess, from the wedding, and her dress suitable for the time period but again, also a mess. The only thing that I would criticize (which the 2012 did) would be the make up - I would imagine her slightly more pale and and everything sunken in a bit more.

Charles Dickens - Great Expectations. Miss Havisham Review

As a whole, I thoroughly enjoyed the story line and completely fell in love with the idea of a young girl being brought up by Miss Havisham, a wealthy lady who was completely heart broken and mentally ruined by her fiance not turning up to her wedding, and Estrella, the young girl, being taught how to be heartless and to break men's hearts and make them cry to get revenge on her runaway husband. Whilst also following the maturing of a young boy named Pip who was sent away to be taught how to become a gentleman, he then fell hopelessly in love with Estrella, who in the end, does actually find her heart and falls in love with Pip.

Quotes on Miss Havisham's apperance

"She was dressed in rich materials- satins, and lace, and silks- all of white. And she had a long white veil dependent from her hair, and she had bridal flowers in her hair, but her hair was white. Some bright jewels sparkled on her neck and on her hands, and some other jewels lay sparkling on the table...She had not quite finished dressing, for she had but one shoe on...her veil was but half arranged, her watch and chain were not put on, and some lace for her bosom lay with those trinkets, and with her handkerchief, and gloves, and some flowers, and a prayer-book, all confusedly heaped about the looking glass...I saw that everything within my view which ought to be white, had been white long ago, and had lost its lustre, and was faded and yellow. I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes... Now, wax-work and skeleton seemed to have dark eyes that moved and looked at me." - Page 56 + 57

"Saw that the shoe upon it, once white, now yellow, had never been worn. I glanced down at the foot from which the shoe was absent, and saw that the silk stocking on it, once white, now yellow, had been trodden ragged" - Page 59 

"Sat the strangest lady I have ever seen, or shall ever see." - Page 56

"Everything within my view which ought to be white, had been white long ago, and had lost its lustre, and was faded and yellow. I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes. I saw that the dress had been put upon the rounded figure of a young woman, and that the figure upon which it now hung loose, had shrunk to skin and bone." - Page 59

""You are not afraid of a woman who has never seen the sun since you were born?"" - Page 60

"corpse-like"

Many of these quotes refer to her as old looking with a white drawn out face, this may be due to the lack of sun she has encountered. From the way Dickens wrote 'corpse like' I can gather than she was thin, pale, sunken in eyes and the whole appearance of her sort of rotting away. Also whilst watching a film version and looking into other film versions of it, this is also the way she has been portrayed. Her general mental state might play a role into her exterior looks as well; mentally she doesn't seem to be there as her goal is to raise a child to be heartless and break men's hearts (this is how I see it anyway) and this bitterness and cold heart about her portrays on the outside with icey cold skin and white hair with dirt and stains all over her garments.

Victorian Era & Beauty

The Victorian Era is something that I am not particularly familiar with but whilst doing my research I realised I had a subliminal interest in it - the beauty and elegance of the wealthy really stood out to me and attracted me to this idea of an obvious divide between the classes. Even throughout the book and film this was obvious, if you were from a lesser background you kept it quiet so the rest thought you were equal.

The Victorian Age started in 1837 when the 19 year old Queen Victoria started to rein she then died in 1901 where at which she became the longest ruling monarch in Britain, she reined for 64 years.

http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/LIFPOD/5577080.jpg

Before the Victorian era took a hold, the idea of covering the face with pastes and paints was particularly very common, even the poor did so. However a religious ruler named Clergymen preached against this idea of 'painted ladies' as he considered it to be 'ill repute' which basically means very lower class and women that had little respect and no importance wore it. Church of England played a very hefty role in determining what the females did in this era, they wanted to keep this idea of all women being pure and modest, Queen Victoria then went along with this idea and considered the use of make up as vulgar and only prostitutes and actresses wore it. Despite all this negativity towards females wearing make up, many still did so - but applying it in a very natural, almost invisible, kind of way.

Ladies of Leisure would make sure their eyebrows were perfectly plucked, trim their eyelashes and apply pearl powder (chloride of bismuth and french chalk, talc) to their faces to hide freckles and blemishes. Similarly to the Elizabethan era the idea of having a pale, clear complexion was seen as beautiful as they wouldn't have to work outside, even the idea of having freckles was an ugly concept. In regard to eye make up some upper class females would apply the smallest amount of black to their eye to open it up, if confronted about it they would instantly deny it, on the other hand the 'fallen women' would have relatively heavy eye make up either in red or black. Small bit of red beet juice was applied to the cheeks to add a healthy glow - this was the Victorians main objective, to create a youthful glowing face with bright shiny eyes and porcelain skin.

In regards to hair, Queen Victoria herself was a great influence - she created a thing called an 'Apollo Loop' which was false hair plaited around some wire and then attached to the head. In comparison to previous era's the Victorians were all about trying to keep it natural, with a simple middle parting, the back of the hair in a bun and loose hairs curled down around the face. At the end of the 19th century the 'Marcel Wave' was invented by the man who invented the curling iron - Marcel Grateau. Which made creating a wave rather than a curl so much easier.

                                                           Traditional Marcel Wave

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/9f/e
2/e8/9fe2e8fac730ec23d5cf2fb8954df5f7.jpg

http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735
http://chertseymuseum.org/hair

The History Of Makeup – Gabriela Hernandez